Soaking up Japanese Culture: How to Enjoy Japanese Onsen

There are plenty of cultures that enjoy public baths and saunas--Turkish, Russian, and Scandinavian cultures come to mind--but for me, Japanese onsen (hot springs) are in a class all their own. Bathing in onsen has long been a Japanese tradition, and it is a great way to enjoy one of the more relaxing aspects of Japanese culture.

For those of you worried about bathing publicly, fret not, I'll guide you through the process so you can avoid missteps and maximize your enjoyment in this relaxing and memorable endeavor. [Of course, if you are absolutely opposed to being naked in the presence of strangers, go to the "Private Onsen Experience" section below]

Public Baths versus Onsen:

It's important to recognize that onsen are Japanese public baths, but not all Japanese public baths are onsen. The key distinguishing factor is the type of water used: in onsen, the water must come from natural hot springs (or simulated by adding natural minerals to the water). There's also a bit of a difference in terms of the characteristics between onsen and public baths in that onsen are meant more for relaxation while public baths are meant more for cleaning oneself and going about one's business.   The facilities typically reflect those purposes.

How to Onsen:

Using a Japanese onsen is fairly straightforward. You can either visit an onsen and pay for a one-time use, or you can stay at a ryokan (Japanese style inn) where onsen are available on the premises.

When you arrive at the onsen, you'll receive a small towel and perhaps a plastic bag with some amenities in it (razor, toothbrush, etc.). From there you proceed to the appropriate dressing room, male or female. There are very few unisex onsen left in the country, so you'll split up and follow the noren (hanging tapestry) in front of the doors. The male noren will be a darker blue or purplish color with this symbol on it:男; while the female noren will be a red or pinkish color with this symbol: 女.

Once inside, there will be cubbies or lockers. Disrobe and place your gear inside an available space.  Leave the plastic bag, but carry the small towel with you, which can be used for a bit of modesty when transiting to the bath.

When you enter the bath area, you will see a bunch of shower heads with stools, buckets, soap, and shampoo next to them.  Pick an available one, plop down on a stool, and clean up.  Be sure to wash up BEFORE hitting the actually onsen tubs.

Once you're fully washed, it's time to hit the tubs for a soak! Most onsen will have a large indoor tub, but some will have an outdoor tub, or rotenburo. Feel free to use either and enjoy the soak!

Two quick notes:

- Some onsen will have a smaller tub on the side or in the corner. Beware before hopping in, because that tub will typically be filled with really cold water. Especially on hot days, dipping in cold water can get you ready to go back and brave the heat and humidity after soaking in hot onsen water for a while.  You also can use a bucket and just scoop some cold water out to pour on you if you don't want to get in for the full soak.

- You carry the small towel with you everywhere you go. When you enter the onsen, you should either leave it on the ledge right next to you or put it on top of your head. Bottom line: just don't keep it soaking under the water if you have the option--just a matter of onsen courtesy.

And there you have it: how to onsen in Japan!

Private Onsen Experience

If you are reading this section, it means that given the choice, you would prefer not to be naked around strangers. There's nothing wrong with that, and you won't have to miss out on the onsen experience--it'll just mean a little prior planning and/or extra money.

If you want a private onsen experience, you'll need to book accommodation at a ryokan that either offers in-room onsen tubs or a communal onsen that you can reserve for private use. A room with private onsen tub is costly, generally running anywhere between 30,000 - 75,000 a night (with room and meals). If you prefer something cheaper, many ryokan will offer communal onsen which can be reserved for patrons at specific times. Sometimes it's free, sometimes there's a nominal fee--in either case, be sure to talk to the front desk to set a time for you and your travel mates to use it, and you'll have the area all to yourselves for that period.