Looking Forward to uncrowded Ibaraki Prefecture

A consideration as I look forward to traveling again in Japan is avoiding popular and crowded places. I have a knack, my friends say, for finding intriguing destinations that don’t attract a lot of visitors. So with that thought in mind, I’ve been planning some off the beaten path excursions for this winter holiday and the coming year since the threat of the pandemic has subsided, and it is hoped, continues to lose its menace.

An Underappreciated Gem

So, where to go within easy distance of Tokyo to take in natural beauty and cultural treasures that are less crowded? I am constantly drawn back to Ibaraki Prefecture. But not many Japanese people agree that this is an enticing place to visit or live. In annual surveys, Ibaraki ranked last for 7 consecutive years as the least attractive prefecture in Japan. Briefly, Tochigi Prefecture took last place, but this year once again, Ibaraki is dead last in the online survey.

My take is that Ibaraki is not unattractive but merely pushed down the ranking because other places are better known or have better marketing. In fact, Ibaraki has embraced its underdog perception, and this year, it’s using the catchphrase 「体験王国いばらき」which means "Experience Ibaraki Kingdom". Make that queendom. It’s all mine when I go there since people don’t flock to it despite all the treasures there.

Mount Tsukuba's peaks visible on my commute most days photo Koda6029

Places I want to revisit

Years ago, I first encountered Tsuchiura City on the shores of Lake Kasumigaura when I had a job there. It’s not as famous as its neighbor the science city of Tsukuba, but it has many charms. A short walk from the station is the remains of Tsuchiura Castle. Although the main keep is gone, it has some well preserved and reconstructed buildings and the park is lovely in all seasons.

On the way are a number of kura storehouses on the old Mito Kaido route. My favorite there, an underappreciated cultural treasure, is Machkidao Daitoku, a classic shophouse that has been repurposed as a gallery, omiyage shop, and bicycle rental base. Upstairs the intricate carpentry and subtle decoration are worth a look. The city also hosts the Tsuchiura All Japan Fireworks Competition in autumn and there are many good vantage points all over the city and the riverbanks.

Escaping by bicycle

Ibaraki may not be the hippest place to go, but it sure has some excellent places for getting away from urban sprawl on a bicycle.  One place to start is Ring Ring Square in Tsuchiura which promotes cycling culture in the region. A few times, I've cycled the north along a defunct train route repurposed as a cycling road. This route took me north to wide-open spaces, cool cafes and Amabiki Kannon, a splendid temple on the flank of Tsukuba Mountain. No matter what time of year I've gone, I've had the route and the destinations all to myself.

On other rides, I've rambled through the western part of Ibaraki to discover the Ibaraki Nature Museum on the edge of Sugao Marsh, a vast wetland with nary a modern structure in view. Further on I rode to Itabashi Fudoson, a richly decorated temple dedicated to Fudomyo in Tsukuba Mirai City. Again, I saw no other visitors. It's one more crowd-free place with rich architectural and local history.

Looking Forward to more Undiscovered Ibaraki

I've got a few spots on my list of unpopular spots in Ibaraki Prefecture that I intend to visit soon. One that fascinates me but is a challenge to get to is Osugi Shrine in Inashiki City. The city has no train lines, so my only choice is to cycle down from Tsuchiura City along the shores of Kasumigaura.

Osugi Shrine, Inashiki City photo Katorisi

The shrine's origin is pertinent in these pandemic times because of its healing history. In the year 767, an itinerant monk prayed for relief from a disease that plagued the people in the region. It's a place to ask for blessings and protection from calamity. I'm pretty sure on a weekday bike ride, I'll be the only pilgrim there, but I'll be praying for everybody.

Is there an uncrowded place close to you that you can get away to in these pandemic times?