Romantic Japan: Edo Era Chiba Prefecture Towns

When I think of romantic places in Japan what comes to mind is nostalgia for past ages when life may have been harder but also slower and perhaps a little simpler. I must admit, I am influenced by European romanticism, a movement that was characterized by intense emotion and idealism in response to the increasing industrialization of the 18th century and a yearning for a connection with nature.

This impulse coincides with the Edo and Meiji eras in Japan, marked by a momentous transition from feudal life to industrialization. It was also a time when the center of power in Japan moved to the new capital, Edo. But can you find Edo-era vestiges in today’s Tokyo? Yes, but the ravages of time, disasters, and rapid development have isolated the historical spots in pockets of the modern city.

However, if you are looking for more heritage of Edo on the cusp between medieval and modern, you might want to look east to Chiba Prefecture where you’ll find the four Hokuso cities, Sakura, Narita, Sawara, and Choshi, places that retain much of the flavor of these past eras. The four cities have been designated as precious cultural heritage that recall the time when they supplied the growing capital of Edo and retain antique atmosphere.

Narita City Temple Town

When I pass through Narita Airport, I budget time to visit Narita City for Omotesando, the approach to Shinshoji Temple. Mid-February is a good time to take in the plum blossom festival at Naritasan Park. The park in a hollow in front of the towering pagoda is a lovely spot for a stroll with your sweetheart among mossy glades that lead to a pavilion on a lake.

For me, the most evocative event in Narita City has to be the Gion Festival in July when the neighborhoods roll out their vintage floats with elaborate carpentry and hold an exuberant rally in the forecourt of Shinshoji Temple. The floats parade around the town center. The festival continues for three days of dancing and processions. I really feel transported to another time here.

Sawara Town

Sawara, the old canal town that prospered during the Edo era is another place I like to go to leave the modern world behind. The Ono River which passes through the town is lined with shops and houses that haven’t changed much since the town’s heyday. In front of the shops, you’ll see steps leading down to the water as the canals were the means of moving goods to the capital.

Today, the canal has old boats steered by women in traditional costumes. On the canal is a bridge that carries a gutter that releases water into the river creating a splashing sound, designated as one of the 100 soundscapes of Japan.

Sakura Castle Town

On a mild day in January, I led a visiting friend to Sakura City, the castle town west of Narita. I didn’t know what to expect, but it turned out that, though the castle no longer exists (the massive earthworks are all that remain) a lot of the heritage of the town endures.

We started at the samurai quarter where friendly guides gave us a tour of the houses and described the life of the occupants. We were surprised to see tea bushes in the garden - the samurai cultivated their own variety here. Inside, the well-appointed kitchen and living spaces give an impression of a slower time steeped in the culture of the samurai. Just west of the quarter is Hiyodori-zaka, a slope shadowed by tall bamboo that rivals more famous bamboo paths for beauty.

But the place that really took our breath away was the Former Hotta Residence and Sakuratei Garden. This manor was built in 1890 by the last leader of the Hotta clan who ruled the domain. The spaciousness of the house and the delicate carpentry made it feel at once grand and intimate. We imagined the Hottas had festive banquets and quiet introspection at this sprawling country retreat.

Choshi Port Town

The westernmost of the Four Hokuso Cities is Choshi, a port town I have yet to visit. I’m looking forward to catching the ocean breezes, feeling the salt spray, and strolling the streets this spring to enjoy the romance of the Edo-era atmosphere at this Pacific Ocean spot.

Have you fallen in love with a region or atmospheric town where you live? What makes it enticing for singles and couples?