Mt. Koya is in my heart

Have you ever wondered why I only posted one review of Mt . Koya? 

I have deep respect for Buddhism, specifically 真言宗, Shingon. You'll see that my blogs and reviews often mention temples, and I'm always cognizant of the many branches of Buddhist schools. On top of that, I appreciate pilgrimage in the Japanese idiom.

Years ago, a kind Japanese friend, observing me experience job burnout and general fatigue with living in Japan, said I needed a break. He recommended a retreat to 高野山, Koya-san, the ancient stronghold of Shingon Buddhism. Founded by Kobo Daishi (his posthumous name Kukai) in the year 816, the mountaintop has dozens of 宿坊, shukubo, temple lodgings. It's listed among the Kii Peninsula UNESCO World Heritage sites. 

The first thing I thought of as I packed for my two-night trip was my 数珠, juzu, a traditional rosary for counting prayers and focus. I gripped it tightly in my mitts on the train trip. I was nervous about observing not only Japanese customs, but also preparing to understand the Shingon tradition. 

The precious amber juzu, a rosary, I bring to every Buddhist occasion

But everybody I encountered put me at ease! Thanks to novices, priests, and families I interacted with, the experience was calming and joyful. I'm forever grateful to a novice priest who, way too excited, as we waited in a reception room, spilled a lot of Shingon lore, and was chastised by her superior (the secrets are safe with me, you dear girl!). And to a priest's wife who took time with me while dog walking around 壇上伽藍, Danjo Garan, and drove me home to my shukubo! And the priest who provided an exhaustive Shingon history as we explored the temple complex. 

That felt like a lifetime in 48 hours on the sacred mountain. I'm grateful and bummed, as it seems the experience I had was 一期一会, ichi go ichi e moments- one chance. No do-overs. 

These days, the Koya-san temples are in hot water for dodging taxes, pumping up prices, and exploiting the tourism boom.

The next time I need a refuge, not on Mt. Koya. I hesitate to say where...