One chance at Mt. Koya

You ever wondered why I only posted two reviews of Mt . Koya? The visit was not a sightseeing trip or on my bucket list. For me, it was sanctuary.

I have deep respect for Buddhism, specifically 真言宗, Shingon. You'll see that my blogs and reviews often mention temples, and I'm always cognizant of the many branches of Buddhist schools. On top of that, I've come to appreciate pilgrimage in the Japanese idiom. For 

Years ago, a kind Japanese friend observing me experience job burnout and general fatigue with living in Japan suggested I slam the brakes. He recommended retreating to 高野山, Koya-san, the ancient stronghold of Shingon Buddhism. Founded by Kobo Daishi (his posthumous name, Kukai) in the year 816, the mountaintop has dozens of 宿坊, shukubo, temple lodgings. It's listed among the Kii Peninsula UNESCO World Heritage sites. 

The first thing I thought of as I packed for my two-night trip was my 数珠, juzu, a traditional rosary for counting prayers and maintaining focus. I gripped it tightly in my mitts on the train trip. I was nervous about observing not only Japanese customs, but also preparing to understand the Shingon tradition. 

But everybody I encountered put me at ease! Thanks to novices, priests, and families I interacted with, the experience was calming and joyful. I'm forever grateful to a novice priest who, way too excited, as we waited in a reception room, spilled a lot of Shingon lore, and was chastised by her superior (the secrets are safe with me, you dear girl!). And to the wife of a priest who took time with me while dog walking around 壇上伽藍, Danjo Garan, and drove me home to my shukubo! And the priest who provided an exhaustive Shingon history as we explored the temple complex. 

That felt like a lifetime in 48 hours on the sacred mountain. I'm grateful and bummed, as it seems the experience I had was one of those 一期一会, ichi go ichi e - one chance, one moment in life. The temples are in hot water for taxation and are pumping up the prices of stays at temple lodgings.

Next time I need a spiritual getaway, I'll go to another shukubo...