Jan 6, 2020
Kusatsu, the perfect place for hot spring fans
This winter I traveled to Kusatsu for the first time. The small town in the Gunma Prefecture is perfect for anyone who likes to bathe in onsen (hot springs) making Kusatsu perfect for a winter trip.
Kusatsu can be reached via train and bus from Tokyo. If you don't want to plan the trip yourself you can find several travel agencies offering trips to Kusatsu. If you travel from Tokyo you can actually go there on a day trip but I would recommend staying for a night so you can enjoy the hot springs at your hotel. Most hotels in Kusatsu have hot springs for their guests and there are also several hot springs around town that you can use for a few hours without having to stay at a hotel.
The main attraction of Kusatsu is the Yubatake, a construction of several wooden pipes where the hot spring water flows through. Kusatsu's Yubatake is used to cool down the water and to filter insoluble components before it reaches the several onsen hotels.
It's nice to look at the Yubatake during the day and also at night when it is lit up. Close to the Yubatake there is a small theater where you can watch a yumomi show. Yumomi is a traditional method used to cool down the hot spring water. As the shows are quite popular you might want to line up early if you want a place in the front rows.
There also is a small pool that can be used as a foot bath in the center of town. Watch out though, as the hot spring waters in Kusatsu are really hot compared to other hot springs in Japan.
Around the Yubatake you can find several souvenir shops for your omiyage shopping and many restaurants and cafes in case you are hungry.
I can recommend the Yakitori shop Shizuka. It is a small place that has no seats and offers food to take away only but as it is quite popular among tourists and locals there is usually a long waiting line. The yakitori here was not cheap but it was worth the price.
As for hotels, I have tried two different hotels in Kusatsu. The first was called Misago. They have three really nice private hot springs baths in the hotel that you can use freely during your stay as long as they are not occupied. This hotel is a little far from the Yubatake so you have to account for about a 10-minute walk.
The second one I tried was called Nakamuaraya. This one is a traditional Japanese ryokan. I can recommend it for everyone that likes cats as they have a few cats roaming the hotel that you can pet and play with.
The hot springs baths here were rather basic and nothing too special but the food was really good. For dinner and breakfast you can expect a Japanese ryokan-style menu consisting of a lot of small dishes. Drinks need to be ordered separately. The menu was quite limited though. This hotel is really close to the Yubatake. Depending on which room you are in, you can see it from the window.
If you are looking for entertainment besides the hot springs of Kusatsu you could try visiting the Nettaiken, a small tropical zoo. The zoo is within walking distance from the Yubatake and has a lot of tropical animals, like capybaras, crocodiles, turtles, several different kinds of monkeys and much more.
Overall I can really recommend Kusatsu for anyone that likes onsen. As most tourist spots are within walking distance you can get by in Kusatsu without a car without any problems. As Kusatsu is a popular vacation spot it tends to get crowded on weekends and national holidays but if you take a relaxing bath in a private onsen you can easily forget about the other people.
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