Keirin track cycle-racing venue Tokyo Oval Keiokaku continues a tradition of delivering entertainment near the Tama River in the city of Chofu that dates back to the early 20th century.

That the city of Chofu is home to the high octane thrills of track cycle racing, or “keirin,” might come as something of a surprise. At least it did to us. By now, team City-Cost has grown very comfortable with visits to Chofu’s marquee sights which tend to move to more gentle rhythms.  

We’ve basked in the nature and spiritual wonders of Jindaiji Temple. We’ve taken gentle strolls among the flora and fauna of Jindai Botanical Gardens, and kicked back in the cafes and coffee shops of Sengawa. Even when we did move through the gears during our mini-marathon around Chofu, in no way could we claim to have reached fifth gear - we barely got out of second by most standards. 

So, it came as something of a surprise to be presented with the opportunity to pick up the pace a bit - or at least watch others do so - at keirin venue Tokyo Oval Keiokaku.

Historians will know that the banks of the Tama River, southwest of Chofu’s downtown station area, have long been the setting for thrills and entertainment. The area was the center of a construction boom in the early-mid 20th century as private railway companies looked to bolster their businesses by building entertainment parks, featuring merry-go-rounds, ferris wheels and bathhouses. 

Among these, Keiokaku (Keio Pavilion) was opened in 1927.  

War would eventually put a stop to the entertainment but, post-war, the enactment of a bicycle racing law in 1948 paved the way for the fun to return. A keirin venue was constructed on the site of Keiokaku and opened the following year.

Today, Tokyo Oval Keiokaku has a capacity of over 30,000 and on big race days attracts fans from all over Japan. 

On race days, admission to Tokyo Oval Keiokaku is a very reasonable 50 yen. Depending on the schedule, races might be held during the day (10:00 - 16:00) or in the evening (15:00 - 20:00). Expect around 12 races. There are some night sessions, too (20:00 - 23:00).

(Keirin race action at Tokyo Oval Keiokaku, Chofu, Tokyo.)

Veteran fans will likely be absorbed in form guides and schedules as soon as they pass through the gates, if not before. Novices, like us, might instead want to explore the venue before the races start. 

There are a number of places to grab a bite to eat at Tokyo Oval Keiokaku, many of them on the first floor under the main stand. You can fill up for under 1,000 yen.

On a fine day it’s nice to take a seat by the pond near the venue’s main gate and study the day’s race schedule. 

We didn’t want to leave anything to chance during our day at the races and so headed over to the venue’s small shrine to offer up some hopeful prayers to the keirin gods. (Don’t miss the keirin-themed ema - small wooden plaques upon which people write their hopes and prayers.)

English-language information and a venue map are available on the website of Tokyo Oval Keiokaku to help you plan in advance. 

Ahead of watching the races, staff at Tokyo Oval Keiokaku had told us that one of the interesting things about keirin is that it is not just a race to hit maximum speed, but also a battle of wits between the riders that determines who wins. 

A typical race features seven or nine riders. We were told by staff to look out for a "line battle," in which riders from the same prefecture or region ride in a line to reduce energy loss from wind resistance, while forcing riders from outside the region to battle the elements.

Fans can take in the race action either at track level or by the track’s steep banks. Special seats and the Royal Lounge afford the greatest elevation and comfort but require a separate admission fee. 

Don’t let the Japanese writing and all the stats overwhelm you, placing a bet on your favorite riders at Tokyo Oval Keiokaku is actually pretty easy to do. Spotting a winner, on the other hand, is perhaps more of an acquired skill. Still, betting starts from just 100 yen. 

Filling out betting cards

There are betting cards all over the Tokyo Oval Keikaku venue. They look like this: 

Cards are machine read and can be filled in using one of the many pencils provided at the venue. Your filling in doesn’t need to be perfectly within the lines. 

Using the image above as our example, start by filling in the field indicating which venue you are at. This is the easiest bit as on the cards at Tokyo Oval Keikaku the venue name is highlighted.

Next, select the type of bet you want to place. There are seven types available. We tried our hand at the 2枠複 (double wakufuku). This, along with the ワイド (wide) bet, is recommended for beginners as it provides the best chance of a win with the least amount of knowledge about form and strategy. 

With the double wakufuku you’re selecting two riders to place first and second, in whichever order.  

Go to the bet type (式別) and fill in the field marked 2枠複.

Fill in the race (レース) number to indicate which race you wish to bet on.

Select your two riders (by their number) - one in each of the fields marked 1着 and 2着 - and don’t worry about the order.  

Enter the value of your bet. Start with the field marked 金額. For a 100-yen bet fill in the 1 and in the next field 百 (hyaku / hundred).

Using the ticket machines

There’s very little you need to do at the betting card / ticket machines at Tokyo Oval Keiokaku. 

When you approach the machine lights will indicate where you first need to feed your money (bills and coins).  

A light will then indicate where to feed your betting card.  

A ticket will be dispensed. Take it and you’re done. 

If your riders come in, you can collect your winnings from one of the machines. 

It’s very simple. Insert your ticket in the slot marked 的中券入口. Wait for the machine to figure things out. Hit the green button on the touchscreen and wait for your winnings to be dispensed.

Tokyo Oval Keiokaku

Address: 4-31-1 Tamagawa, Chofu-shi, Tokyo

Web: https://keiokaku.com/visitor/index_en.html 

This article was supported by Guide to Chofu, Tokyo, presented by Chofu City